Fetzer's natural approach is also quite scientific
In the beverage industry, wine is one of the only products for
which one company is responsible for growing, processing and bottling. Fetzer
Vineyards prefers to have even more control over the process, and winemakers
even have access to their own barrel-making and cork-printing operations.
Fetzer branded wines are produced at the
company's winery in Hopland, Calif. The company produces about 3.8
million cases per year of nearly every kind of wine, but is especially
strong in chardonnay and merlot.
While Fetzer has chosen to take an organic approach to
grape growing, that doesn't mean just letting things happen as they
will. There is a great deal of science that goes into every bottle of
"It's assumed that organic farming is all
about not using chemicals, and it is about that, but it's really more
about healthy soil and creating a healthy environment for the vine to
thrive," says Fetzer President Paul Dolan. "If you have healthy
soil, you'll have a healthy vine, healthy fruit and better quality
"We have to be much more attentive and spend more time in our
vineyards," he continues. "You can't be an absentee farmer, so to speak. You
need to be out there every day in every corner because when an infestation or
an insect shows up, there are benign things you can do that need to be done
quickly and at a certain stage."
Fetzer uses a number of cover crops and non-grape
plantings to attract birds and beneficial insects to the vineyards to feed
on insects that damage grapes, and improve the health of the soil. By
providing a variety of plants and other elements, Fetzer increases the
diversity of microorganisms in the soil, which gives the plants more access
to more minerals.
"We believe that diversity creates a more natural expression
for the vine," Dolan says. "We allow the vine roots to go down and extract what
they think is appropriate rather than what's fed to them. We think it's a truer
expression of the terrior in that particular soil, location and climate."
That diversity also helps protect plants against infestation,
says Bob Blue, winemaker at Fetzer's Bonterra ranch.
"We know that in nature, the best systems are
more complex because they have more stability. The more diversity you have,
the less insect pressure you have. You have [insects], but they don't
cause the same problems," he says. "The opportunist
doesn't have a chance to come in and kill the plant because
it's fighting for nutrients along with the other plants.
"The people who do the farming are the next
level of farmers. They are educated and intuitive, and they can use all
sorts of strategies that are pretty powerful. In some ways, it's kind
of high tech," he says. "It's
not farming by neglect or hippie farming. It's very proactive."
Winemaking: a creative process
Once the grapes are grown and harvested, Fetzer's winemakers
take over. The company has seven winemakers who oversee specific brands and
are responsible for developing each wine variety.
At harvest time, truckloads of grapes arrive at the Hopland
winery and are emptied into large presses. Red wines are crushed — skins, seeds
and all — because they help deliver the desired color and tannins. White grapes,
on the other hand, are pressed more gently to remove the juice from the skins
and the seeds, which would make the wine too bitter.
From the crushing stations, the crushed grapes and juice are
put in fermentation tanks. Depending on the type of fermentation required, some
of the wines are fermented in stainless steel tanks and others in barrels. To
allow the winemakers to further control the process, most of the tanks are jacketed
for cooling and some for heating.
Just as Fetzer parent company Brown-Forman uses its
own barrel-making for whiskey, Fetzer has access to Mendocino Cooperage, an
onsite cooperage facility owned by Brown-Forman. Winemakers at Fetzer are
able to provide direction on wood selection, aging and toast levels to
achieve the results they are looking for.
"We want our winemakers to talk to the barrel-makers and say
'this is the type of barrel Iwant to make this particular kind of wine'," says
Hoke Harden, manager of global wine education at Brown-Forman. "We don't want
other people to control our destiny so we involve ourselves in making as much
as we can every step of the way."
Barrels are stored in one of two barrel warehouses,
depending on whether they are red or white. The red barrel warehouse was
one of the company's first forays into environmental construction.
The structure is similar to a reservoir, with dirt built up along the
sides. The environment inside the barrel room, which stores about 48,000
barrels, is humid to protect barrels from evaporation. The red barrel room
is not air conditioned, but has night fans that circulate air in the
evening, and misters that keep the humidity levels up. Another 12,000
barrels are stored in the white barrel warehouse.
"Barrel storage is a critical element of winemaking for us because
it gives the wood flavors and it allows the wine to breathe," says Dolan. "It's
important to the development and the aging of the wine."
In the plant
When the wine is done aging and has been blended, it
is piped over to the plant for a few finishing touches, and finally, for
Before filling, the wines are filtered, or polished,
to the winemaker's specifications. The wine is held in polishing
tanks, which range in size from 350 to 120,000 gallons, depending on the
speed of the bottling line and the size of the wine blend to be bottled.
Wine is not released
for filling until it is approved by the QA/QC department, and quality
control personnel also are responsible for approving all raw materials such
as glass, labels and corks.
Glass arrives at the plant in Fetzer-owned trucks,
which, not surprisingly given the company's environmental philosophy,
run on bio-diesel fuel. To make the most of each trip, the trucks not only
deliver finished product, but carry raw materials such as glass on their
way back to the plant.
Cases of glass are depalletized and bottles are sent
to the filling line while empty cases go to the end of the line to be
recased with finished product. The glass goes through a cleaner that
rotates the bottles 360 degrees. At 180 degrees, any bits of dust that
might be in the bottle are vacuumed out, and then carbon dioxide gas is
blown into the bottle to remove oxygen, which could cause the wine to
oxidize on the shelf.
The Hopland plant has three bottling lines: a 750-ml.
line that runs at 250 bottles per minute, a 1.5-liter line that runs at
about 110 bottles per minute, and a third line that is used for smaller
runs of specialty products. In all, the three lines turn out about 19,000
cases per day.
Bottles are filled, corked and laser coded, which allows the
company to track not only when the wine was made, but where the grapes came
from and who was operating the bottling line when it was filled.
Filling levels are monitored by electronic inspection, which
removes any bottles that are not filled to the correct height. Once the height
has been verified, a wax applicator drops melted wax on top of the cork to seal
the bottle. Fetzer imports its corks from Portugal, but has an onsite cork factory
that prints its own logos and messages on the corks. The company also has an
in-house designer who creates the cork designs.
Once sealed, bottles are then labeled with front, back
and flange labels. They are recased and the cases are coded with all of the
information relevant to production, as well as any promotions, such as
Fetzer's current Olympic sponsorship, or general product information.
Cases are repalletized and stretchwrapped, and are
stored in a temperature-controlled warehouse, which holds about 600,000
Quality control is tightly monitored at the Fetzer plant, and
production stations are checked every 30 minutes.
"We are ISO 9001 certified, and we're one of the first wineries
to be certified for that," says James Sobbizadeh, who heads production. "From
a quality standpoint, everything we touch is going to be done the same way,
whether it's 200 cases or 200,000 cases."
Fetzer's commitment to the environment extends
past organic farming to practically every aspect of its operations. The
company developed what it calls the "triple bottom line", which
requires that environmental issues be factored into decision-making.
"Everybody here knows what that means. You can
ask anybody, they all know something about it," says Patrick Healey,
who has overseen development of many of the environmental programs at
From an open office architecture that helps regulate temperature
to the use of recycled paint, renewable materials and biodegradable cleaning
products, Fetzer has chosen environmentally friendly alternatives, and has reduced
waste by 95 percent since 1990.
Healey describes the mission as a work in progress, but says
it often is not any more expensive than conventional operations.
"A lot of these things don't add cost. You
actually break even," he says. "And you also can feel good
about yourself. I think you get better employee retention, too, because
people like working here." BI
The good earth
Just up the road from Fetzer's main Valley Oaks property is
the company's Bonterra ranch. Unlike Fetzer branded products, Bonterra, which
is derived from French and Italian words for "good earth", uses organics as
a brand message. Products feature the words "organically grown grapes" on the
The 300-acre Bonterra property is located in
Mendocino's McNab Valley and is not only farmed organically, but
biodynamically. Only subtly different than organic farming, biodynamic
farming can be thought of as organic, with a few additional steps.
In biodynamic farming, special preparations are
created by making "teas" from things such as fermented plants,
nettles, oak bark and cow horn. The "tea" is added to compost
material and sprayed on the soil, adding a number of new elements.
Another biodynamic preparation includes the use of
ground quartz that is sprayed before flowering and before maturation,
creating a prism effect that is thought to aid in sugar ripening and
maturation of the flower.
"We use those practices from the standpoint that
it helps us expand our understanding of agriculture and what agriculture
can be, and to be more holistic in our approach to farming," says
Fetzer President Paul Dolan.
The company also is helping expand the understanding
of biodynamic farming by taking part in a Washington State University study
at Bonterra to examine possible benefits of biodynamic practices.
"There is no evidence to show this stuff works.
It's not proven, it's all anecdotal," says Bob Blue,
winemaker for Bonterra. "But there are amazing things that happen
that we don't understand, and this is one of them."
Beverage Industry’s October issue features a cover story on our 2019 Executive of the Year, Jim Koch of the Boston Beer Co. This issue also features a category focus on bottled water and the innovations that abound in flavored, functional and sparkling waters. The issue also includes an ingredient spotlight on the beloved chocolate ingredient as well as voice-picking solutions aimed at streamlining beverage warehouses. As usual, we rounded up the latest trends in products, packaging and ingredients.
Check back throughout the month for additional content.